The Lidl Things in Life

Lidl is my favourite supermarket for a number of reasons. Sure, one of those being that you can buy a set of well priced drill bits at the same time as a Spanish cheese selection and hell, why not throw in some scuba gear while you’re at it, but I’ve also become quite attached to their wine range. This changes regularly and has in the past provided good value and in some cases particularly good quality – this including 30 bottles of their Comte de Senneval champagne that we bought for our wedding.

Wine and drill bits are one thing but what about their spirits? Well, for a start I’ve already reviewed their Queen Margot 3yr old and Abrachan blended malt and was very much a fan of both of them. I’m a fan of blends in general and I’m all for well priced and accessible blends that don’t come at the cost of quality. Single malts, and whisky in the wider sense, can sadly suffer from some of the most intense and misguided levels of snobbery you’ll find. I’d say it had improved in recent years but I still see it on a regular basis, yes some of this is down to a lack of awareness or education, but in some cases this is due to a disregard of them with many immovable in their unfounded opinions.

What a good job it is then that a retailer such as Lidl can bring everyone back down to earth by providing a small range of single malts for a good price, and when I say good price, I mean it.

What can you buy for £17 these days? Well let’s take to the internet – From a quick google search for a start there’s this bargainous sack from ‘Little Peckers’ , no? What about this absolute gem? Still no? Well, for the princely sum of £16.49 you can instead purchase one of a range of three Single Malt Scotch whiskies in Lidl. Full sized bottles, not 20cl or 50cl. £16.49 for 70cl of single malt is a good price no matter what you’re used to. By comparison the cheapest full bottle single malt on well regarded retailer Master of Malt is £21 plus shipping in the form of the Speyburn Bradan Orach. This in itself is still a good price for a single malt but let’s get back to Lidl.

The Lidl range goes under the name Ben Bracken. This isn’t a distillery but a suitably Scottish sounding header for the Clydesdale Scotch Whisky co who provide this lineup to the retailer. The postcode under the name is G2 5RG which is an address on St Vincent st and what do you know, is also the same postcode as the head offices of Whyte and Mackay. Anyway, the range consists of an all NAS (no age statement) line up, all are bottled at 40% and all will no doubt be chill filtered and have added E150a colouring. At this price point I’m not going to make a fuss out of that. The three whiskies take the form of Highland, Speyside, and Islay single malts.

Ben Bracken Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky – 40% Chill Filtered – Added E150 colouringRRP £16.49

If we buy into the post code detective work and do guess at Whyte and Mackay stock, this would either come from Dalmore or Fettercairn with them being the group’s two Highland region distilleries.

I had to let the whisky sit in the glass for about 30 minutes as it was very closed initially. That being said, the nose opens with Orange zest, hot chocolate and plastic model glue. Then we move into sweeter territory with warm toffee, almond essence and spices alongside a slight astringent nose burn towards the back.

The mouthfeel is pretty good but fades quickly. Initially I thought the flavours were pretty intense upfront with coconut and dark chocolate (for the sake of ease let’s say dark Bounty bars) cardamom, cinema popcorn and warm spice. This is all contained to a couple of seconds as it drops off a cliff a little bit and goes very quiet. Then from nowhere there’s suddenly a really enjoyable long and chocolate led finish alongside more of that toffee.

Overall I felt this was a little bit closed and straight forward but then again approachable and enjoyable.

Score: Fine

Ben Bracken Speyside Single Malt Scotch Whisky – 40% Chill Filtered – Added E150 colouring – RRP £16.49

Now if this is indeed Whyte and Mackay that supply these malts and using their own stock, their only Speyside distillery is Tamnavulin.

The nose is rather lovely indeed. Compared to the highland this already shows more cohesion and harmony. Creme brulee just after the top has been crystallised by the blowtorch. Vanilla, toffee and banana bread. Staying on the bread front there is Soreen there too with all it’s malty and raisin based goodness.

The palate again has a decent mouthfeel that sticks around a bit longer than the Highland. We’ve hit a vein at the sweet mine and we’re going to see how deep it goes. Butterscotch, spices and honey intermingle well together. There’s also something reminiscent of cognac that appears alongside raisin and walnuts. There’s then more of that maltiness here alongside an almost wine-like astringency (sherry perhaps?) that balances out the sweetness as we head into the finish. The finish itself is rewarding and almost chewy in texture with gums suitably dried alongside a dense but enjoyable sweetness that isn’t overly cloying that reminded me a bit of Madeira cake.

Overall a really enjoyable sipper that would make a great no-nonsense tumbler dram to sit back with and enjoy.

Score: Good

Ben Bracken Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky – 40% Chill Filtered – Added E150 colouring – RRP £16.49

Now onto Islay, the small but distillery laden island off the west coast of Scotland, famous for it’s peated whiskies creating a smoky profile.

On the nose we instantly have some of those classic Islay notes in the form of sticking plasters, TCP and interestingly a bit of flitting tropical fruit in among a gentle but welcomed smoke. Leather and fresh tarmac pop their heads up at the same time as a slight saltiness.

The palate again starts with a good texture. The smoke is apparent but is joined by dried cranberries, vanilla and bonfire toffee. I love getting bonfire toffee notes in whisky as it immediately takes me back to being in the kitchen on bonfire night eagerly asking my mum how long it will take for her latest batch to cool before it could be demolished. My dentist and I are now on first name terms. You could argue there’s some of that salinity in there again but more prominent than that for me was a good level of spice and nuttiness.

Again this dram is well composed and really does provide a great introduction to a classic Islay style. The smoke isn’t as pronnounced as your average official Ardbeg, Caol Ila or Lagavulin release sure, but for me it still provides enough for me to sit up and take notice.

Score: Good

Overall I’m genuinely impressed with these drams. Even the Highland that was probably the lesser of the three provided a positive experience but overall you really can’t argue with the value on display. For what it’s worth I’ve actually had bottles of the Ben Bracken Speyside previously so am already familiar with it. I’ve also tried Aldi’s standard Glen Marnoch range which is effectively the same set up of 3 NAS 40% drams from the same regions, but for me Lidl’s Ben Bracken range just pips their fellow German rivals.

If you’re starting out on your whisky adventure, you could do a lot worse than spending the £49.47 on one of each of these. I’ll be honest, even those of us who have been drinking and picking whisky apart for decades could do a lot worse. Sometimes we all need something affordable an approachable and these fit the bill perfectly.

One thing’s for sure, the next time I head to the middle of Lidl, I’ll make room in the trolley between the Italian sundried tomatoes and chainsaw for a couple of bottles from the spirits aisle.

Malt Music

Fancy some tunes? The Malt Music for these drams is a bit of a reflection of them. Are they Whyte and Mackay stock? Do Dalmore and Tamnavulin feature? I’ll let Queens of the Stone Age answer that for me. No One knows.

Scoring Scale:

Holy Grail – Indiana Jones himself can only hope to find such a treasure.
Unbelievable – Among the best I’ve ever had. Must be tried at all costs.
Outstanding – One you should try to get hold of. Qualities in abundance.
Very Good – One to have on the shelf regularly. Provides consistent enjoyment.
Good 
– I’d happily drink this. One to buy at the right price.
Solid 
– No particular flaws but no wow factor either.
Fine 
– There to take the edge off. Good for highballs and won’t need much thought.
Meh
 – Somewhat flawed. More of a chore than a pleasure.
Oh Dear 
– Consistent flaws. Gets you where you’re going at the speed you want to get there.
Please Make it Stop
 – Not one to seek out. Hope for a gift receipt.

That Tamdhu Attitude

For those of you that know me, you’ll likely realise very quickly I’m not one of those can-do people, Tamdhu on the other hand..

Tamdhu isn’t a distillery I’ve actively sought out previously. I can count on three fingers the number of their expressions that I’ve had over the last 12 years. That’s not a direct reflection on the distillery or their parent, Ian MacLeod – I’ve just spent my money elsewhere historically. Usually when it comes to my sherry fix Glendronach being a prime example.

Ian MacLeod own two whisky distilleries in the form of Tamdhu and Glengonyne, the latter of which I have visited. They’re also in the process of resurrecting Rosebank distillery as we speak which is something to keep an eye on and hopefully means I’ll finally be able to afford some. Their portfolio is pretty broad overall considering the small number of distilleries on the books, you have a multitude of blended whisky brands such as Sheep Dip and Six Isles, as well as Smokehead Islay single malt from an unnamed distillery.

Ian MacLeod took ownership of Tamdhu in 2011 following it being mothballed by previous owners Edrington, with the former then putting a lot of time and love in bringing Tamdhu back to life.

Tamdhu is traditionally seen as something of an overlooked malt. Until their art-deco style re-brand back in 2013 (lovely bottles by the way), they were easy to miss in all honesty. This isn’t aided by a small product range with a 10yr old (edit: now discontinued), 12yr old and 15yr old alongside the occasional smattering of cask strength and distillery exclusive releases which in all honesty make my wallet wrinkle up and die on seeing the cost of the latter.

Founded in 1897, this Speyside distillery has it’s own quaint railway station, albeit unused. The whisky itself is a key component in the Famous Grouse and Cutty Sark blends which in a way goes further to explain the historically limited availability in Single Malt form. There is an emphasis on the use of sherry cask maturation at Tamdhu with the vast majority of production transferred into Oloroso sherry casks from Spain.

Tamdhu 12 yr old Single Malt 43% NCF – Natural Colour – RRP £45

The 12 yr old comes in at a modest 43%, is non-chill filtered and natural colour. Just from looking at the whisky both in the glass and the bottle, this won’t strike you as a sherry bomb in appearance with a relatively light amber hue. Refill ahoy!

On the nose I’m initially greeted with a whopping amount of intense brown sugar, then comes baked apples, sultana and hot sticky toffee pudding with vanilla custard. There’s a touch of milky hot chocolate and towards the back a smattering of crepes catching in the pan.

The palate, like the nose, remains sweet in profile. This time I’d say it feels more attuned and at one with itself. Salted caramel back with warming spice. This then puts me back in a cottage in Eskdale in the Lake District about 10 years ago in front of the fire eating Jamaica ginger cake. We then go back a few meals from dessert to breakfast in the form of honey on buttered toast, well done toast I’d add. In comes a touch of white pepper before the spices return to see out a warming and sweet finish.

The mouthfeel is good but I wouldn’t say as oily as other drams I’ve had in this style, 46% instead of 43% might have helped in this regard.

Overall an enjoyable dram, for me it took a few weeks in the bottle to open up but considering I picked this up for £32.99, certainly not one to complain about. This is on the lighter side of sherry maturation with what I feel is a complimentary lighter spirit in the category. I’ve happily sipped this over the last few days in between snow storms and heavy rain tapping at the double glazing. I’d add this was a noticeable step up from the 10yr Old that I’ve had a bottle of previously. I’ve also heard good things about the 15yr old but topping out at circa £70 this may be one to find on offer.

Score: Good

Fancy some tunes? The Malt Music for this dram is comes courtesy of North Downs, an English trio who blur the lines of electronica, funk and indie. This particular track – Nightlife Blues, showcases exactly that with almost ethereal vocals and a toe tapping bridge and chorus.

Scoring Scale:

Holy Grail – Indiana Jones himself can only hope to find such a treasure.
Unbelievable – Among the best I’ve ever had. Must be tried at all costs.
Outstanding – One you should try to get hold of. Qualities in abundance.
Very Good – One to have on the shelf regularly. Provides consistent enjoyment.
Good
– I’d happily drink this. One to buy at the right price.
Solid
– No particular flaws but no wow factor either.
Fine
– There to take the edge off. Good for highballs and won’t need much thought.
Meh
– Somewhat flawed. More of a chore than a pleasure.
Oh Dear
– Consistent flaws. Gets you where you’re going at the speed you want to get there.
Please Make it Stop
– Not one to seek out. Hope for a gift receipt.